Savour International

Juan-les-Pins has a special ring for jazz aficionados. This Riviera resort plays host to jazz greats from around the world each year, against the backdrop of a spectacular view of the Mediterranean.

 

Juan-les-Pins on the French Riviera is one of the most exciting places to let jazz get under your skin for two main reasons. First, the jazz festival at this stylish seaside resort features jazz greats the likes of Keith Jarrett, Stanley Clarke, Marcus Miller and Jeff Beck. And second, Joss Stone and Alice Russel get the audience’s adrenaline pumping against a picture-book backdrop consisting of the blue Mediterranean, white boats, and the Lérins Islands dotting the horizon. A southern-city sound and picture postcard panorama: that’s the formula that for the past 50 years has been attracting stars and fans alike from all over the world. This year’s Jazz à Juan festival will be held from July 14-25. Jazz à Juan, a perennial gathering place for the crème de la crème, was founded as a tribute to the New Orleans jazzman Sidney Bechet, who was one of the greatest jazz musicians of the 1920s. This Creole soprano saxophonist and clarinetist was both a friend and rival of Louis Armstrong, did European concert tours with the irresistible Josephine Baker, and loved Antibes and the neighbouring seaside resort of Juan-les-Pins.

 

In 1951, Bechet married in Antibes (which is one of the oldest cities on the Riviera) in a joyful celebration that went down in the annals of the city’s history. Pablo Picasso, who was among the illustrious guests at the wedding, also loved the atmosphere in Antibes, which inspired his painting La joie de vivre. The atmosphere at Jazz à Juan is electric. Many fans arrive two hours before concert time, get themselves a glass of wine, and watch the drums being set up on stage or just soak up the atmosphere, which really does get under your skin. Right next to the stage is a restaurant called Le Provençal Beach, where Ray Charles, Louise Armstrong, Edith Piaf, Ella Fitzgerald and Miles Davis once dined.

 

The stars play on at the Casino jazz club

The pictures of these jazz greats decorate, trophy-like, the entrance to Le Provençal Beach restaurant, from which you can see the stage and the sea. As the sun begins sinking slowly into the Mediterranean after a dinner of lobster salad and honey-glazed salmon, the lively atmosphere at this unique jazz festival becomes even more festive. The audience is a mix of tourists, families, and jazz enthusiasts. Of the 6,000 seats, 3,000 are for standing room. But when Joss Stone comes on stage, takes off her shoes and sings Put your hands on me in her sexy soul voice, no one remains in their seats.

The nights are long in Juan-les-Pins. After the concert, many of the star performers repair to the Casino jazz club (which is right next to the Pinède Gould stage), where they socialise with the musicians that perform there. “I once had a great evening there. One time I even went skinny dipping with the musicians at night,” says Pierre from Paris.

Culture is omnipresent in Antibes Juan-les-Pins. Antipolis, which was established in 400 BC, is well worth a visit. The historic town centre, Vieil Antibes, is lovely to behold with its narrow streets branching off to the right and left. The market at Place Masséna, a true treat for the senses, offers all sorts of items that smell wonderful and taste even better. You can sample there to your heart’s content olives, tapenade, and some of the 1,000 cheeses for which France is famous.

01 | Stage with ocean view. In Juan-les-Pins, jazz musicians perform under the stars against the backdrop of the deep blue sea.

02 | Enthusiastic jazz fans. At the Juan-les-Pins jazz festival, a lot of audience members are so inspired by the music that they just have to stand up.

03 | Evening atmosphere in Juan-les-Pins. Many artists remain on stage after sunset as well.

 

Right near the market, you’ll find the Picasso Museum (in Place Mariejol), which reopened two years ago. Picasso, who had his studio there from July to December 1946, gave Antibes 22 paintings and 44 drawings in gratitude for this period.

Another worthwhile sight is Fort Carré, which sits atop a 26-metre cliff on Saint-Roch peninsula. The best view of the fort, which dates back to the latter half of the 16th century, is from Vieux Port, Antibe’s marina. Port Vauban was expanded 25 years ago and is now one of the largest yacht harbours on the Riviera. A vast array of extremely impressive luxury yachts can be seen at Port Vauban during the festival. The atmosphere at Jazz à Juan is very special, thanks to its mix of world class music, the blue Mediterranean, romantic sunsets, and the chirping of crickets.